How To Create Perfect Dressmaking Patterns
The Complete Dress Maker
If you are new to dressmaking you will soon discover that particular patterns on material present problems in cutting the fabric.
MATCHING STRIPES
In preparing your material for cutting to overlay the dressmaking pattern, pin stripes together. If material has a tendency to crawl, pin stripes together at varying intervals.
With no front opening in the dress design place dominant stripe at center of front and match the rest to this.
Your second pattern piece with the opposing stripe marked on it is placed on the material. For proper placing, keep the shoulder seam on this piece turned back and move your pattern over the material until you match the stripes marked on them at the points where they cross the seamline. Pin your pattern securely at this point, unfold seam line – and this is ready for cutting.
HOW TO MATCH OTHER FABRIC DESIGNS
The same procedure can be used for matching stripes, plaids, or checks at any seam.
Since there is always some difference in the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the fabric design in plaids and checks, always remember to match lengthwise design with lengthwise design and crosswise with crosswise.
Cutting plaids or checks on the bias requires extra care. When cutting sleeves on the bias of plaid material, cut each sleeve separately. Place right side to right side and move sleeve on material until you have the fabric design exactly matched at all points.
Figured materials can be treated as plain materials unless the design is large and widely spaced. NAPPED FABRICS, VELVETS, OTHER PILE FABRICS
Richer effects are obtained by having the nap of the material facing or running in an upward direction, smoother effects with nap running downward.
KNITTED MATERIALS
As some knitted materials have a tendency to ravel at cut edges, it may be necessary to machine stitch around the edge of each piece you have to cut out.
SHEER MATERIALS
Chiffons and voiles and other sheer materials stretch very easily. Then after your pattern has been properly pinned, cut through the material and tissue paper at the same time. The Art of Tailor Made Dresses
Tailored made dresses require a specialized type of planning and sewing. Remember to pre-shrink the material. Check out the straight of goods. Match stripes. Remember the importance of pressing all seams as you go along, PRESSING TIP – to avoid seam allowance impression to show on the right side, place heavy paper between seam allowance and body of the garment before applying pressure with your iron. All rounded areas should be pressed over a tailor’s ham, and straight seams on a roll cushion.
All tailored styles require interfacing in order to hold the shape and crisp lines of the design. SEWING TIPS FOR INTERFACING: Instead of being joined in the conventional manner, the seams are overlapped and catch-stitched. Drape the garment, inside out, on the dress form. Pin the interfacing to it. See that the material and interfacing are placed together wrinkle free. Baste interfacing to material at seam lines, front edges, arms, and neckline.
Sew twill tape to the roll line of lapel, and after clipping the front edge of interfacing almost to the seam line, join it to the garment with tape by sewing one edge of tape to garment and the other to interfacing with slip stitches. Now baste interfacing to wrong side of collar. If collar is to remain flat, join it to the material entirely with padding stitches. The rest of the collar is finished with padding stitches. Attach the collar to the neckline – right sides facing – stitch at the seam line through material and interfacing. Notch neckline seam allowance. Clip interfacing close to stitching line. Press seam open.
Sew upper collar to lapel and neckline facing. Clip corners and notch seam allowance. Press seam open. Pin, right sides facing, to garment. Clip all interfacing close to stitching at seam allowance. Turn the facing and garment right side out and baste together about half inch from outer edges. Finish backs of button holes and catch stitch edge of facing to interfacing.
Now you have taken the first steps to learn how to sew a dress, you can start to create all your own unique designs.
